Question:
I have several dried Hydrangea flowers on my plants.  Its now winter time in Georgia (strange winter 75 degrees today).  I have heard if you cut the flower a new one will not grow.  Which part of the stem do I cut the flower at so future growth will happen?

Answer:
Not knowing what variety of hydrangea you are referring to, some bloom on old stems, some on new stems and some on both old and new.  The safe thing to do is cut off the dried flowers just beneath the bloom  You will then be able to  observe whether blooms form on old, new or both type stems.

Thanks for checking us out on the web.  My joy juice gives remarkable results on Hydrangeas, spraying the leaves or applying to the roots.

P.S.  Joy Juice works safely on all plants, either on the leaves mixed with water according to directions or on the ground.  :)

POTTING: Hydrangeas are rather easy plants to grow. They prefer loamy, well drained, acidic soil (pH 6.5 to 4.5) enriched liberally with organic matter. Most hydrangeas prefer quite a bit of shade, although H. macrophylla and H. serrata will tolerate much more sun, but will still flourish in mottled sun for part of the day. It is important to keep the roots moist and well fed by covering with mulch; this is especially true with those planted near trees. They may also need protection from spring frosts, which can kill the buds. In some species, the flowers change color according to the amount of aluminum and level of acidity in the soil. H. macrophylla will produce blue flowers in acidic soil where more aluminum is present. The lower the pH, the bluer the flowers. In neutral soil, they take up less aluminum and the flowers are pink. On white flowers, only the eye color of the male flowers will change. To produce blue flowers even if your soil is neutral or alkaline, add aluminum sulfate or sulfur to increase acidity. Plants grown in soil with a pH level higher than 7 (alkaline) can also become chlorotic because of a lack of iron and must be treated accordingly. Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring. This consists of cutting off dead flower heads back to the first leaf node that has buds and dead, weak, or crowded stems back to the base.

PROPAGATION: From April to August, cuttings of hydrangeas may be taken. The cuttings should be made from the ends of non-flowering shoots. Each shoot should have two or three pairs of leaves. Remove the bottom pair of leaves and cut the stem just below a joint. Insert them in well-packed sand in a greenhouse propagating case or in a cold frame that is kept closed until they form roots. Shade them from bright light and sprits with water on sunny days. Once they've formed roots, a little air should be allowed into the frame or glass case. A few days after, the little plants can be potted individually in small containers filled with equal parts of peat, leaf mold, sandy, lime-free loam and coarse grit.